“Let’s get organized. What time is it and what day is it?” — Coral Browne as Vera Charles
1) Up a little after 8:00 AM with almost exactly no idea how to get started in this new city. A dear friend from graduate school who Knows Vienna had sent a flock of suggestions — a lot to pore over. But one reason I chose this hotel (aside from the fact that it had availability at the last minute) was its proximity to Schönbrunn, the Hapsburg’s summer palace. So I booked an early afternoon ticket for a palace tour.
2) That gave me a couple hours to have breakfast in the hotel (which will not become a habit here), investigate some other ideas, and catch up on communications with friends and colleagues.
3) The day was gray, and the forecast for rain, but I took a chance and didn’t ask for one of the hotel umbrellas (thank goodness, more on that later). A touch of coolness made contact with me every few seconds, but 15 minutes later, on my final approach to Schönbrunn, my pale gray shirt was spotted more than I thought it would be.
A courtyard fountain.
4) The first view of Schönbrunn has everything to do with 21st century transportation. One doesn’t see the palace, only parking for electric vehicles and large tour buses. But when one does come to the entrance, how wonderful!
5) I took my time in the shop, because of the rain, but everything was really geared to the Myth of Sisi — baseball caps, fans, sparkly pencils, etc. There were umbrellas, but I resisted. I sat on a step until it was my time to approach the tour entrance.
6) And why was it a good thing that I resisted an umbrella? Because at Schönbrunn they need to be checked! And that would have impeded my progress through the day.
The billiard room.
7) Now, this is not really my very first ever trip to Vienna. I had a lovely sample of it on that 2014 Travel Program trip for two days. Schönbrunn was a wonderful part of that. This tour allowed me to remember what I saw, see what I missed, and take my time over all of it.
7a) From a preservationist standpoint, how fortunate that Franz Josef I reigned for 68 years and didn’t like change. What progress his successor Karl and his wife Zita had made in modernizing the palace in 1916-1918 was “reversed as much as possible” after 1918. The result not only gives us a good look at Austrian imperial and family life, it’s pretty darned amazing.
Here they are! Franz Josef and Sisi, early in their marriage.
7b) First one goes through Franz Josef’s and Sisi’s rooms, then family rooms, then some enormous public and ceremonial rooms, and then (if you’ve booked the palace tour and not just the state rooms tour) an additional suite of rooms mostly dating from the time of Maria Theresa (or Theresia, you choose).
A photo screen!
7c) Surprises? There were a few:
A bronze statue of Hercules bashing a dragon that had been a stove.
Remember that fabulous photo screen of Queen Alexandra’s I saw in London? Whaddya know, Franz Josef had his own photo screens in his bedroom!
Franz Josef died in that bedroom. I didn’t expect to see a really lovely and poignant painting of him on his deathbed exhibited next to the bed.
The family dining room is known as the Marie Antoinette Room. (“No no, Vera’s in there!” IYKYK.)
Happy recognition from books of a couple portraits of childhood Marie Antoinette.
The two Chinese Cabinets, oval and round, small rooms with magnificent chinoiserie panels used for cards or very private conferences.
The Millions Room, with furnishings. I would totally have this in my home.
7d) But my very favorite room, which I remembered from before, is the Millions Room, paneled in collages of Mughal court life actually assembled by members of the Hapsburg family. It’s like putting out a puzzle at the office or the family room, and everyone just contributes as they feel like it — only here it’s with priceless works of art, and the result is sumptuous interior design. According to the audio guide, it’s the most valuable room in the palace.
8) Speaking of which, I’m generally audio averse, but the Schönbrunn audio guide has the advantage of no headphones. You just press the number(s) and hold it to your ear, and that is so simple.
The Great Gallery, largest of the public rooms. Notice the budding influencer at left, being filmed giving his tour.
9) A palace tour room by room like this flows very much like a river. That means some people move along more quickly than others (and sometimes you’re glad they do), and sometimes people (like me, a couple times) move backwards because they missed something. Aside from a couple large tour groups, I particularly noticed one young man in a flat embroidered cap (dark blue with a white border) being filmed by another young man as though giving a tour. That could have been Tyranny of the Pretty Lady, but they didn’t complain about anyone getting in their way or impede anyone else. Still, it requires attention to try to see an exhibition and not end up in someone’s Yewtybbe.
Empress Elizabeth’s salon. Not that she was there much . . .
10) Once back outside (the whole thing took me about a hour and 45 minutes, because I lingered), I found the little restaurant in the outer wing of the palace, and a table inside for one. Having been warned that café service in Vienna was “leisurely,” I was prepared for a wait. But I didn’t think that included a wait for utensils after my meal had been served (a wonderful and, I gather, traditional salad with fried chicken, marinated beans, greens, and potatoes). The waiter was so apologetic he provided a complimentary espresso, which I enhanced with a slice of the haustorte.
11) Whaddya know, they have the same kind of blue house numbers in Vienna that they do in Paris . . .
12) Back in my room, my head wanted to take a nap, but my body didn’t. At 6, I made myself go down to the hotel bar with my laptop for a negroni, and to write. And now, I’ve had my second negroni . . .
