Recollected a couple days later.
1) As mentioned on earlier days, the most wonderful unexpected things happen with Craig. I finished my packing in time for us to leave for Sunday mass at Westminster Cathedral. This involved taking the Underground to Green Park (“Hey, I’ve been here!” I said as I recognized the Art Deco statue of Diana at the exit), through which we walked to Buckingham Palace, and then . . .
2) . . . and then our progress was arrested as traffic along the Mall was entirely blocked off for an indefinite period for what I hoped would be a marching band. It was very hot in the sun, but at least we were at the curb (there was a discussion about the different definitions of “pavement”) and we could be first out of the gate when allowed.
A much better view than I had a few weeks ago leaving the King’s Gallery!
3) And then there they were! Unless it’s a waltz, there’s nothing I love more than a good old-fashioned John Philip Sousa-style band, and that’s exactly what we got. I think they even played “Mademoiselle from Armentières.” At least I hope they did. And we got a great view of them as they marched off to our left . . . and again 15 minutes later as they marched back the way they’d come.
3a) In that 15 minutes, more than a few people were getting impatient about crossing the street, especially cyclists. There were some cycling around the Queen Victoria monument in that traffic circle, but not where we were on the Mall. One cyclist tried to muscle through us to the road anyway. “The officers are flagging bikers,” I said. “But what about them?!” he asked, pointed at the cyclists by Victoria. “That’s not my fault.” He went on anyway.
4) There was great rejoicing when the crosswalks were opened again, and Craig and I made tracks to get to the cathedral before mass started. That meant barreling between people posing for photos and their family/friend photographers. “Nobody cares,” I heard one woman lament as we zoomed past.
And here they come again! Craig observed that a good drum major was shift course enough that they could dodge what I recalled the Boston Brahmins used to refer to as “horse apples.”
5) We made the enormous cathedral with a few minutes to spare. The place was quite full. Craig pointed out the Byzantine interior decorations that stop halfway up the walls because they ran out of money (as happens). I actually think it works as it is; how odd, me advocating for restraint! But I noticed most the primary color scheme: the midnight blue walls and ceiling, the columns of yellow marble around the altar with dark green bases, and the red carpet and altar cloth. Sorry, no photos.
5a) Craig also explained that red was the proper liturgical color of the day as it was the feast day of martyrs, Saints Peter and Paul.
5b) When, during the homily, the priest began “Pride is a word that’s in vogue right now,” I silently raised one eyebrow.
5c) The music was beautifully done, and I was lost in thought with my eyes closed when the collection bag made it to our pew. How embarrassing not to be ready!
6) After the service, it was definitely time to think about food, and we ended up at a place not too far away called Bill’s, where I tucked into a full English washed down with an aperol spritz.
7) In the late afternoon, with all my luggage, I sallied forth to find a taxi to my final hotel. A sign of my impatience, I just thought we would never get there. And it was so very hot.
8) My Final Hotel is quite close to Kensington Palace, and my room is small but with a very high ceiling, basic but cozy.
9) Craig met me at the Ivy (quite close to my hotel) for a very swish dinner. It made a nice celebration for the official start to the last leg of my trip.
10) Afterward we took a little stroll through Kensington Gardens in the hopes that the Princess Diana Garden would be open. Alas, it was not; its hours are probably tied to those of the Palace. But it was nice to be in this beautiful, not too carefully manicured public garden.
10a) On one side of Kensington Palace is a wrought-iron fence enclosing an area with a statue of William of Orange. I was surprised to see the gate and the fence on that side covered in signs and tributes of Princess Diana, in advance of her July 1 birthday. There was even a beautiful floral heart made of white flowers with a centerpiece of pink roses and green and white-striped leaves. I was surprised it was permitted, but then when it comes to the People’s Princess, the People are going to have their say no matter what.