Etiquetteer's 2020 Holiday Gift Guide

The holidays are going to be very different in this annus horribilis. Etiquetteer doesn’t think it’s safe for you to travel anywhere at all, in fact! That means hunkering down at home with all the familiar holiday trappings, learning how to use video technology if you haven’t yet, and mailing gifts to loved ones a lot sooner than usual, to be sure that they arrive in time. (It also means tipping delivery people more than usual [especially if your usual is nothing] since they are all putting their lives on the line to keep us safe at home.) So this year, Etiquetteer wants to suggest some Perfectly Proper gifts that focus on home life.

FOODSTUFFS

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While this year’s Great Feast may not have as many people around the actual table, there’s no reason not to make that table look festive for everyone in your bubble - even if that’s only you. Chocolates are always appropriate on any dinner table, and Etiquetteer loves the Chocolate Snowmen of Burdick’s ($40.00 for box of nine). Send to friends who can put one (or more) at each place with placecards. And for those who remember candy cigarettes fondly, there’s always a box of their Scotch Whisky Chocolate Cigars ($38.00 for box of six). “Dark chocolate ganache blended with whisky is hand-rolled into the shape of a cigar to enjoy in two different distinctive flavors: 10-year-old Laphroaig and 12-year-old Old Pulteney.”

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Is Meet Me in St. Louis part of your holiday tradition? Remember when Leon Ames brings Mary Astor a box of chocolates on Hallowe’en to sweeten the news of their move to New York? “Louis Sherry!” exclaims Lucille Bremer. And wouldn’t you know it, Louis Sherry is still here, producing glorious chocolates and sending them hither and yon in the most colorful boxes you can imagine. Tins from two to 24 pieces may be ordered from their website, and will no doubt having you singing along with Judy Garland.

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What could be cosier than a cup of tea on a dark winter afternoon? Etiquetteer discovered the teas of Grace Tea Company back in January, at a little shop in Lower Manhattan. For the tea drinker in your life, a five-tin sampler could be Heaven ($48.80-$53.00). Etiquetteer will confess to being specially fond of their Connoisseur ($14.60 for an 8 oz. tin) and Russian Caravan teas ($13.75 for an 8 oz. tin), which convey true subtlety. For those who take tea after dinner instead of coffee, Grace even offers a Demitasse After Dinner Tea ($16.50 for an 8 oz. tin), a “blend of superior Indian teas with exotic pouchong jasmine tea leaves . . . It is a no-nonsense, strong tea, which has an astringency one feels on the tip of the tongue.”

To make hot chocolate even more decadent, add a Toasted Coconut Marshmallow ($15.90 for two 8 oz. tins) from the Vermont Country Store. And for the nut dishes in your holiday parlor, Cream Filberts ($19.95 for a one-lb. bag) will make everything feel more magical.

HOME

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Candlelight makes winter evenings (and early mornings) more intimate. Since we can’t change our interior decoration every day, we can change our experience by changing the scent. We Light, “the brainchild of theater people holding a vigil in the city that never sleeps,” is a collective of performing artists who have begun making scented candles as a response to the coronavirus pandemic. Their 100% American soy wax candles use paper wicks, optimal for fragrances that contain essential oils. Looks like they have something to please every nostril, but Etiquetteer is most intrigued by their Cast Party scent, “herbaceous notes of earl grey tea, light musk, sandalwood, linen and powder.” Review all their aromas here. Twelve-ounce candles are $30 apiece, or consider their three-candle bundle ($55) featuring Deep Amber, Rosemary Grapefruit, and Blue Mallee Eucalyptus Verbena.

Now, if you know someone who really needs to be transported, the original piano compositions of Dutch pianist George Beentjes, the Gentleman Composer, could sweep them away. There are selections on his second album, Fin de Siècle, that leave Etiquetteer wanting to hide under the piano like Judy Davis as Georges Sand in Impromptu. You’ll find more information about his ravishing discography here.

Chaotic holiday mugs from Calamity Ware.

Chaotic holiday mugs from Calamity Ware.

Perfect Propriety and Humor are not incompatible, rumors to the contrary. That’s why Etiquetteer is always so delighted by the whackadoo designs from Calamity Ware, celebrating impending apocalypse by twisting traditional forms. The Calamity Ware version of your grandma’s Blue Willow china pattern includes erupting volcanos, whirlpools, sea monsters, pirates, robots, flying monkeys, and more. Their “Things Could Be Worse” holiday mugs take things further! Set of four for $52.00. Their Creature Comfort playing cards will leave you wondering if you should play that ace. $16.00. They have even published an etiquette book, Monster Etiquette! $14.95.

Illustrator Jake Gariepy has perfected his charming style of welcome domesticity, whether it’s the White House or your house. For the person who has everything, a special commission of a family home or favorite room could delight the soul and become a loved heirloom. Commissions run $70-100. More information is available on his website, Dapper and Dreamy.

BOOKS

Of course Etiquetteer always loves to recommend books!

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Roger Hutchison is not just a Christian educator of unique empathy, he is an author and artist with a growing reputation*. This year Etiquetteer is recommending two of his titles. Jesus: God Among Us curiously began with a dream in which the life of Christ appeared as a totem pole. Roger recorded this dream in paint, and then in words. “Hutchison takes a moving piece of personal artwork and breaks it down into pieces to serve as the lenses through which to view various biblical stories of Jesus. But he doesn't stop there, as we also find reflections both inspiring and challenging to our own world and our own situations.” $19.95, via Amazon.

Roger’s newest book, Faces: A Love Story, reveals the panoply of humanity in ways we rarely get to see them now: without masks. Roger’s portraits and words reveal our communities to ourselves. The video message below says it better than Etiquetteer ever could. $16.00, via Amazon.

Fascism: A Warning, by former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright, should make anyone appreciate hearth and home more. It’s a perceptive, personal, and chilling view of the 20th century, and how those events may repeat in the 21st. “The twentieth century was defined by the clash between democracy and Fascism, a struggle that created uncertainty about the survival of human freedom and left millions dead. Given the horrors of that experience, one might expect the world to reject the spiritual successors to Hitler and Mussolini should they arise in our era. In Fascism: A Warning, Madeleine Albright draws on her experiences as a child in war-torn Europe and her distinguished career as a diplomat to question that assumption.”

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As you know, Etiquetteer is a firm believer in Proper Dress, but the pandemic lockdown has taken a toll on even what Etiquetteer is wearing (or not) around the house. I’m Not Wearing Any Trousers: And Other Working from Home Truths, by Abbie Headon, grapples humorously with the joys and challenges of working from home (or homing from work) from a relaxed dress code out of screen view to photobombing pets and children. $9.99 from Harper Collins. Just please don’t stand up during that work Zoom call!

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For your favorite mixologist, Dallas-based Andrew Klausner and Jeremy Cooper have compiled not one but two books of original cocktail recipes, Cocktail Hour Meets…A Pandemic and Cocktail Hour Meets…A Presidential Election. The first is subtitled Our 50-day story of coping and bonding during COVID-19. Because even when you don’t know what day it is, there’s still cocktail hour! which says a lot about the universal experience of Time passing during lockdown. You may read Etiquetteer’s review here. The second volume includes new recipes named after all 46 American Presidents, from George Washington (the Whiskey Rebellion) to President-elect Biden (the #NoMalarkey). Yes, that means there’s two cocktails for Grover Cleveland, the 21 and Done and the Take 2. Presidential history enthusiasts will also enjoy the extensive buffet of Presidential trivia included with each recipe. Each title $19.99, via Amazon.

And of course these cocktail authors are Etiquetteer’s special guests at the December 4 Repeal Day Celebration!

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If you prefer your drinks dedicated to women, there’s always Drinking Like Ladies by Misty Kalkofen and Etiquetteer’s beloved Miss Kitty, Kirsten Amann. have assembled a mouth-watering lineup of drinks for that special hour between 5 and 7 PM. Just remember to keep your pinkies in. $17.81.

*Also, in the spirit of full disclosure, Etiquetteer’s first cousin once removed.

Jewelry for a Gentleman, Vol. 19, Issue 58

Somehow it seems Perfectly Proper to follow up the last column about jewelry for a lady with something about Perfectly Proper jewelry for a gentleman. Etiquetteer was so excited, planning to refer to Emily Post, Esquire Etiquette for Men, and the late Walter Hoving of Tiffany . . . only to realize with some chagrin that Etiquetteer already wrote that column, last year in volume 18. So if you’d like to know especially about jewelry a gentleman can wear with evening clothes, please go back and read that. Let’s talk about finger rings instead.

Conservative good taste demands that a gentleman’s jewelry be inconspicuous; that word turns up a lot. Indeed, there are some ultra-conservatives who believe a gentleman doesn’t wear jewelry at all except for a watch and a wedding ring. The character of Uncle Matthew in Nancy Mitford’s novels goes so far as to use a leather strap for his gunmetal pocket watch and “gnashes his teeth” at a gentleman with a pearl-and-platinum evening watch chain. But Etiquetteer is not so forbidding of ornamentation as that!

The subtext of all this self-effacement seems to be that Nice Men Don’t Sparkle, because the second rule about not being conspicuous is that a gentleman never wears diamonds. At all, ever. It was thought of as vulgar. Margaret Case Harriman’s mother, when she broke her engagement with a suitor, returned the engagement ring* but not another jewel he gave her. This was “a ten-dollar gold piece made into a brooch and heavily encrusted with the initials ‘P.D. Jr.’ in diamonds.” She said that she kept it because he used it as a scarf pin. “I simply couldn’t have a man I was once even slightly engaged to going around with diamonds all over his chest.”**

But why should this be the case? What made diamonds on men vulgar? Etiquetteer is inclined to agree with M.H. Dunlop, the author of Gilded City: Scandal and Sensation in Turn-of-the-Century New York, that this was a reaction to diamonds having become too accessible after a depression in price after 1874. If everybody’s doing it, can it really be in the best of taste? And yet one of the most classic (and conservative) designs for a gentleman’s ring is that of a black onyx set in gold with a small diamond at its center.

Classic and conservative.

Classic and conservative.

While one does see more men wearing diamonds these days, even some of them acknowledge that it isn’t really Perfectly Proper. Augusten Burroughs and his husband chose large vintage diamond rings for their wedding rings, but Mr. Burroughs Himself acknowledged to Out that “Most self-respecting men would not wear diamond rings as large and flashy as these.” His late Victorian cabochon-cut sapphire ring shown in this New York Times article shows much more traditional taste.

This sterling silver and fire agate ring came from the Grand Canyon.

This sterling silver and fire agate ring came from the Grand Canyon.

Perfect Propriety suggests that a gentleman wear only a wedding ring — usually only a very plain gold band, worn on the fourth finger in the United States*** — and perhaps another, like a signet ring, only on the pinky finger. “ . . . and even a ring ought to mean something,” says Esquire Etiquette for Men of 1953, “like a wedding ring, or a signet ring bearing a coat of arms he’s really entitled to.” To Etiquetteer, “mean something” would certainly relate to the giver or previous owner. Before the coronavirus pandemic, Etiquetteer often wore this simple silver ring set with a fire agate, an heirloom of Dear Mother’s family. But with so much hand-washing now required, Etiquetteer has stopped wearing it.

But for many gentlemen, their high school or college graduation ring is the “only other” ring they wear. The typical style is most often gigantic on any hand, and excessively incised with inscriptions and symbols. They are often set with a gemstone, real or fake, en cabochon or faceted. (You can see images here at Herff Jones, one of the big school ring makers.) They are so ubiquitous that they don’t seem very distinctive. Contrast those with the unique graduation ring of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, known as the Brass Rat. By replacing a gemstone with a relief of the school mascot, a beaver, a symbol instantly identifiable the world over was created. Now that’s how to stand out without being flashy about it!

Etiquetteer didn’t even get to discuss things like cufflinks, chains (both watch and neck), or earrings - perhaps another time. Etiquetteer will leave you to the reaction of a board of directors to a presenter after his hasty arrival, presentation, and departure (without taking questions): “Who was that man with six visible pieces of jewelry?” Not a Perfectly Proper impression to make!

*This is really the most Perfectly Proper thing to do. Ladies who suggest that they’ve “earned it” open themselves up to Unpleasant Insinuations.

**This charming story, and many others, found in Margaret Case Harriman’s delightful memoir Blessed Are the Debonair.

***Emily Post actually suggested in early editions that the wedding ring also be worn on the pinky finger, but that’s not something that ever caught on in the States.

We Cannot Look Away, Vol. 19, Issue 55

Etiquetteer is supposed to be a column about manners, about behavior, about how we use etiquette to get along in the world and make it a pleasant place to be. It’s comfortable to confine that discussion to weddings and tea parties and clothing and stationery, but that’s only the frosting on the etiquette cake. Last night Americans witnessed one of the greatest assaults on political courtesy ever broadcast, the first 2020 presidential debate. As deeply uncomfortable as it is, we cannot look away from it.

President Trump’s behavior is neither the behavior of a gentleman nor a leader. His contempt for his opponent, the moderator, the previously agreed rules of debate — indeed, his contempt for anyone or anything on that stage not himself — degraded America and any concept of American greatness. It makes Etiquetteer’s earlier writing on campaign etiquette appear downright quaint. There’s no need for Etiquetteer to say much; just watch the footage.

President Trump behaved like a bullying schoolyard gangster. His call for the P***d B**s to “stand back and stand by” made him look like he should be wearing a double-breasted pinstripe suit with exaggerated shoulder pads, tossing a roll of nickels in the air and saying “I’ve got some boys in the back who can make you say anything.” Ask yourself if you think that’s decent behavior. If you voted for him before, or plan to in 2020, ask yourself how well that behavior reflects on you. Accepting his behavior and supporting Trump with your vote indicates your comfort with anyone behaving that way. You will no longer have any grounds to criticize anyone else believably.

The motto of the United States, E Pluribus Unum, means “Out of many, one.” One nation, not one personality. We need to move on from every discussion being about One Big Personality and to return it to being about All Of Us. And we can’t even start to do that until One Big Personality is out of office. The words of Rose Sayer in The African Queen have never been truer: “Nature, Mr. Allnut, is what we are put on this earth to rise above.” The candidate who is not rising above is President Trump. He needs to be voted out of office. We need to vote him out. We cannot look away any longer.

National Scarf Day, Vol 19, Issue 54

Now in its third year, National Scarf Day is observed every September 27 “to recognize the power of the scarf.” Because on the internet, anything can be a holiday. So, let’s consider the scarf and how it is worn with Perfect Propriety.

Quite possibly the most powerful status indicator for a lady before 5 PM* is the Hermès scarf. Its value and quality is immediately apparent, and as Paul Fussell pointed out in his essential book Class, scarves “. . . instantly betoken class, because they are useless except as a caste mark.” There must be dozens of ways to tie a scarf around one’s neck. Etiquetteer has Dear Mother’s copy of Judith Keith’s of-its-era I Haven’t a Thing to Wear, which is full of ideas. The most luxurious is a long scarf draped loosely and anchored by a pin on one shoulder, but a long knotted scarf will bring you right back to the mid-1980s.

And then there’s the trend of tying it onto a handbag, which was started by Babe Paley en route to lunch at La Grenouille. She felt it was too warm to keep around her neck, but couldn’t figure out what to do with it. Onto the strap of her handbag it went, and an upper-crust vogue was born.

Edith Sitwell as Herself.

Edith Sitwell as Herself.

At the other end of the spectrum is the scarf used as headgear. Eccentrics like Dame Edith Sitwell and Little Edie Beale distinguished themselves by making their headgear an essential, iconic part of their appearance. It would have been unthinkable to see Dame Edith without something exuberant sprouting from her head, more often hats but memorably scarves and turbans. And Little Edie concealed even her ears with the stern application of a scarf around her head, anchoring it with bold costume jewelry. Ali McGraw, and then Valerie Harper’s iconic character Rhoda Morgenstern, did a lot to make the headscarf look more comfortable and accessible.

Ali McGraw knew how to work a scarf.

Ali McGraw knew how to work a scarf.

Ladies, if you feel like trying something a little different that’s still Perfectly Proper, why not attempt a mid-century style turban?

Etiquetteer is just a wee bit more skeptical about the success rate of these suggestions for scarves as dresses and beachwear.

Gentlemen, as usual, have less room to maneuver with a scarf than ladies. The Art of Manliness blog has a comprehensive guide to how a gentleman wears a scarf with Perfect Propriety (and also which scarves are for gentlemen and which are not). In the last few years Etiquetteer has become quite fond of the Parisian knot, which is quite easy and ought to be more widely used.

Since the 19th-century cravat fell out of style, scarves for men have fallen in and out of fashion. In the 1930s one often saw cotton bandanas or scarves knotted casually (but not too loosely) around the neck with sports clothes, and it’s become sort of a stereotype to see a pleated silk cravat worn with a velvet or silk smoking jacket. With evening clothes, however, the only Perfectly Proper choice for a gentleman is a white silk or silk-satin scarf, with or without fringe, and with or without an initial or monogram in black or gray only. It should not be necessary to specify that this is not in lieu of a bow tie . . . but it is.

Etiquetteer will admit to remaining fond of the trend started five years ago of the blanket scarf for men, but one has to be careful it doesn’t appear to be a shawl. Only someone with the creative force of Frank Lloyd Wright could get away with that!

With the colder seasons almost upon us, Etiquetteer hopes you enjoy ferreting out some favorite or forgotten scarves and facing the Fall with Perfect Propriety.

Etiquetteer sports a Parisian scarf knot for fall.

Etiquetteer sports a Parisian scarf knot for fall.

*After 5 PM is traditionally when it’s Most Perfectly Proper to start wearing one’s large jewels.